DEPARTURES MAGAZINE
OCTOBER 2001

OUEST
Food lovers abhor a gastronomic vacuum. For proof, you need only witeness the crowds that rush into Ouest, on the quality-deprived Upper West Side. That they do so is a tribute to chef Tom Valenti, whose lusty, straightforward food I have loved at Alison on Dominick Street, Cascabel, and Butterfield 81. Let's hope he's here to stay in this huge, multilevel new home that has crowded, leathery look of an old-style bar and grill.

The hustle and bustle around the open kitchen seems to suit the rugged fare. The parchment-like smoked duck breast topped by a crisply fried poached egg and bitter greens, a pork terrine encrusted with mustard and a turnover stuffed with goat cheese and Portobello mushrooms are starters. Main courses include roast halibut cushioned on white bean puree, gamy and juicy squab on a rich tomato risotto, short ribs on creamy polenta with onions and mushrooms, and simple, perfectly rosy lamb chops dotted with roast garlic cloves.

Properly cruncy biscotti make the simplest dessert. More elaborate alternatives are the soothing fruit crisps, chocolate cake with a scoop of banana ice cream and a sliver of peanut brittle, and the almond financier served with lemon ice cream. $100. 2315 Broadway, new York, NY 10024; 212--580-8700. (Mimi Sheraton)